Oh sh*t, sump gasket...

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 07 Jun 2006, 04:37

I just realised my sump gasket is completely shagged. Hmm.

Can these be purchased? My mate reckons it's the same as SOHC but I'm not so sure.

Help appreciated... Sorry to be a pain.

Post by **zzr81** » 07 Jun 2006, 09:44

Nope, nutter,

not even stocked in Japan anymore.

Post by **Bradlze** » 07 Jun 2006, 18:40

has anybody tried that gasket maker out of the tube thing?
the sticky blue stuff?

mikuni · Post by **mikuni** » 07 Jun 2006, 19:29

Apparantly the sump gasket is the only part no one can get hold of. I'm sure there will be a way tho. That gasket goo stuff is rated at wickedly high temperature and is oil resistant so it may work ay?

Post by **Poida** » 09 Jun 2006, 13:13

Might be worth buying a sheet of gasket cork or even neoprene and carefully cutting a gasket from it. If the end "hoops" are the same as the SOHC sump gaskets I can help out. I have about 20 genuine Isuzu sump gaskets from the Holden auctions.

GeminiCoupe · Post by **GeminiCoupe** » 09 Jun 2006, 19:24

Um, Poida...

DOHC gaskets arent flat-faced. Only flat surface is the block, the sump itself is channeled - its much like a 4Z rocker cover gasket.

Nick-

Coley · Post by **Coley** » 09 Jun 2006, 22:14

On my g200w i bought a sohc sump gasket and modified it. The hoop at one end and the majority of the bolt holes line up from the back but the front is a bit different. I cut a bit out of the centre of the hoop and glued it back together with contact cement. It is also a bit shorter so i cut small sections out of both sides and once again glued it back together and i only had to cut out a couple of bolt holes. Its held up better than i expected, it does leak a little bit, but i'm not too fussed.

Coley

Shano · Post by **Shano** » 11 Jun 2006, 13:04

Im currently in the process of organising to get a large amount of sump gaskets made through a local gasket company.
I still havent got back to see them yet on price details, But I will not be doing a group buy thing I will be having around 50-100 made and selling them.
I will update very soon.

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 14 Jun 2006, 19:05

Thanks heaps everyone, as always.

I'm very interested Shano, unless it's really expensive you can put me down for one for sure. In the meantime, I'll try to melt together where it's split (gotta love soldering irons) then gasket goo the lot and do the bolts up as tight as I can.

Post by **Poida** » 14 Jun 2006, 22:41

archangel62 wrote:Thanks heaps everyone, as always.

I'm very interested Shano, unless it's really expensive you can put me down for one for sure. In the meantime, I'll try to melt together where it's split (gotta love soldering irons) then gasket goo the lot and do the bolts up as tight as I can.

Big mistake!

Only nip the bolts or the overtightening will cause more chance of a leak forming. The gasket should not bee compressed till it loses it's original shape.

Any tinware should be thouroughly cleaned and carefully inspected. If it's bent or warped out of shape, careful panel bearing is needed to return it to the original shape. This is especially true for the actual gasket mating surface. Most tinware sumps and valve covers distort when even slightly overtightened.

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 16 Jun 2006, 03:19

Hmm, good point. I would never do anything ridiculously tight - it will just end up ruining the thread. Thanks, though.

My G180W came with 5 bolts on the sump, I think it needs 20 or so

Reckon that's a job for a bits and pieces place like MotorTraders? (I don't know if they have that place in other states).

Post by **Poida** » 16 Jun 2006, 14:21

You only need to take a couple of samples to a bolt bar and they'll be able to match some to suit. You only need grade 4 bolts for the sump and use loctite on the thread when fitting them. NIP them as if you were using a screwdriver, not a breaker bar!.

I use an inch/pound tension wrench to do up tinwear bolts. Yeah, yeah, a tension wrench for such piddly stuff!?! Tell you what, the Isuzu factory did too! EVERY nut and bolt is tensioned when assembling a car on the line. EVERY single one. When dealing with 20 bolts on a sump, if they differ in tension then that's uneven pressure on the pan and the loosest bolt will be the first to rattle loose. It just makes sense to do things by the book.

It's also essential when it comes to assembling and making adjustments to auto transmissions.

Invest in an inch/pound tension wrench!

Tassie ZZ/Z · Post by **Tassie ZZ/Z** » 29 Jun 2006, 15:17

Hey,

Cut and shut a sohc sump gasket that was already mentioned above, works a treat trust me............

Coley · Post by **Coley** » 11 Jul 2006, 11:32

Hey Shano any advancements on those custom twin cam sump gaskets you were going to get made up?

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 04 Aug 2006, 01:14

x2

Poida what sorta tension should be used for a sump gasket? Also what sort of tension should I be using for the rods, cam bearings, crank bearings etc? I really would prefer to torque all of these things, rather than risk throwing a rod on my way to Canberra because I screwed up... etc. What sort of tensions should I be thinking?

GeminiCoupe · Post by **GeminiCoupe** » 04 Aug 2006, 09:17

Rod bolts are torque'd not tensioned

Get a torque wrench and the Gregories manual will tell you what torque to use on the bolts - rod/crank caps should be the same as SOHC.

Nick-

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 11 Oct 2006, 06:22

Ok I've ordered a G161z sump gasket, and since doing so have forgotten why I ordered G161z and not G180z. Which one do I need, is there a difference?

Oh well I'll try to use this G161z gasket and if I can't modify it to suit I'll sell it to someone with a Gem...

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 14 Oct 2006, 22:46

Right, I've calmed down and shut up.

The G161z sump gasket will work a treat, it almost looks like a five minute cut-down job. THANKS EVERYONE!!!

Costs like $10-$20 too.

Post by **Poida** » 16 Oct 2006, 18:42

Just a follow up note about bolt tightening. The torque specifications are related to the bolt and the material it is being screwed into. All manufacturers will use similar torque settings according to the above points.

The Isuzu manuals have two handy charts to indicate torque settings for different size bolts, diferent bolt material, different thread pitches etc.

Measure the diameter of the bolt shank. Then look at the head for the tensile mark then compare on the scale for the thread pitch of the bolt you have and the answer will be there.

I have posted the info on my "The Workshop Manual" web pages.

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » 24 Oct 2006, 02:27

Here's my G180W sump gasket (more stuffed than it looks) on top of my new G161Z sump gasket. I test fitted them and it looks like it shouldn't take much work to make it fit. I wish I'd taken a pic of the test fit, it's a bit hard to see the comparison here.