Isuzu G-series Twin Cam

lower mass of the valve train makes them rev out easier

not so much lumpy cams more so cam's with bigger lift. you need to machine the buckets but you can't take too much otherwise the bucket will comke out of the hole at high rpm. i think you can also modify the head but the people i asked about it didn't want to do it. they said to talk to guys that mo...

90% sure it would have a module in it

how many wires coming out of it?
take the cap and rotor off. then you might have to remove a cover plate and then you'll see the module inside or not inside. it will be a black square with two wires from the dizzy and two out. most have them internally unless they have been modified.

On mine i ditched the module and ran the dizzy as a magnetic pickup for my msd ignition made life easy.

99% of the time the cams will be standard due to the fact that you have to modify the buckets to put bigger cams in and its alot of work. I'd be very carefull if the carbies have been modified like that get it going and get it dyno tuned or atleast tuned by a carby specialist. just put your timing l...

we spent days re doing the cam timing over and over. if it runs at all the cams are timed right just keep increasing the timing you might not need as much as i had but it will give you an idea. have the carbies been set up for that motor already. when i finally got my side drafts tuned on the dyno w...

yeah i had the brakes glowing with a stock 1.6 back when i was on my p's. glazed the pads and rotors next time i went to stop it felt like the car actually went faster. thge next weekend i upgraded them.

this brings back memories from when i tuned my first twin cam exact same problem. in the end we gave it about 28 degrees with about 4 degrees advance when you rev it.what sort of dizzy are you using. the one i had had the vacum advance removed and was nearly locked. you might need to move the dizzy ...

can't you just use a standard gemini or rodeo one. if not ive probably got one at my parents house down in wollongong, ill be going there next weekend

depends on how you drive and what you've done to your motor. i run commodores all round and i don't think i could go back to standard gemini brakes but ive been in cars gemini's included with most likely more power than you have with standard or barely working brakes and there not that fun to drive....

im pretty sure the piazza setup wont work because the manifold has the sameport spacing as the g series while the twin cam has even spacing.

hey denny what sort of mods have you done to your twin cam's.

whats been done to the bottom end?

sorry its long gone.

rather then use hoses with bolts remove the plugs where the hoses join with blanking bungs. i used anodized allen key ones or cut them off and weld them up. the brake booster should connect on the bottom of the inlet manifold around cylinder 4.

keep it simple block everything off. you only need 1 vacum line from the dizzy if it has vacum advance and one to the computer if its an aftermatket and these go on to the plenum chamber. water 1 in and 1 out to the radiator and 1 in 1 out for the heater if you hook it up.

the g180 efi is gone but i have the other spare parts just let me know exactly and ill dig around and see what ive got

the cheapest is to modify the existing dizzy but if the shaft is bent that wont work. also most efi compaies will sell one to suit the computer. all it is is a magnet drilled into the pulley on front of the crank and a sensor that bolts on near by. then get some bosch coil packs. msd deffinitely mak...

hey jason i thought about it after i left. if your stinger can control ignition modify the crappy dizzy to be a magnetic pickup pull the guts out and block the top off and run 4 coil pack's. or get a crank angle sensor. that will give you heaps more control over the ignition curve and a better spark.

probably save half an hours labour and a couple bucks in material. ive brought extractors done like yours for $50 second hand the extractors i have now are worth about $500 but work well.

im not sure if this was covered but the standard exhaust manifold will hit the engine mounts, you'll need a set of extractors that will clear the mount and have clearance for the starter motor.

what is the balance shaft. if its what i think it is needed as part of the timing chain arrangment. this is the first ive heard of such a mod.

i saw them a while ago. there bloody nice. i think if you had a set of extractors like that on a single cam it will have better top end then most the ordinary one's i see getting around. probably $600 to get a set made or more.

what do you need exactly ive probably got one lying around rather than make a wooden adaptor.